Having been raised in Puerto Rico, I have always loved coffee. During our visit to Chiapas, lightly sweetened black coffee was served with all our meals. Our sisters would bring us a pitcher of piping hot coffee during the day, which we drank between meals, and even at night. We quickly found out that Chiapas coffee does not keep you awake late at night.
The majority of residents in Union Buena Vista are coffee farmers. For over a century, Chiapanecos and their families have worked harvesting and processing coffee. Early in the mornings we would see machete-wielding men walk down the street wearing a cowboy hat, old blue jeans, a long sleeve shirt, and dirty rubber boots. We knew they were headed to their “rancho”, or coffee farm, to work in the clean-up of their plants, and to check on the new coffee beans.
The “rancho” is basically a farm, and these men will sometimes walk two hours to their fields. The Union is a three-hour ride from the nearest city and its roads are not paved. The only way to reach the “rancho” is by foot, or on a horse. Many men walk and take along a donkey.
Harvest time starts sometime between December and January. This is when the entire family leaves the Union and heads to the “rancho”. The coffee is picked and a hand crank machine is used to de-pulp the beans. The beans are then soaked and left to ferment for a few days. Finally, they are spread out on concrete to dry in the sun. The best dried coffee beans are selected, bagged in huge coffee sacks, and sold in Chicomuselo. Of course, the family keeps some of the beans, and they complete the processing and roast their own coffee.
The climate and altitude in this part of Mexico is ideal for growing coffee. The coffee from Chiapas has a mild, delicate flavor, and a rich aroma. As a departing gift, our new friends from the Union gave us five bags of coffee, all roasted by different families. Our Chiapaneco brothers and sisters were truly hospitable, and we will never forget them.
Como soy Puertorriqueña, siempre me ha encantado el café. En Chiapas nos servían café endulzado con todas las comidas. Durante el día las hermanas nos traían una jarra de café caliente que tomábamos entre comidas y de noche. Lo asombroso del café Chiapaneco es que no nos desvelaba.
La mayoría de la gente que vive en la Unión Buena Vista trabaja en el café. Por más de un siglo los Chiapanecos y sus familias han cultivado café. Todas las mañanas, pasaban por la calle hombres cargando un machete, con sombrero de vaquero, vestidos con viejos pantalones de mezclilla, una camisa de manga larga, y botas sucias. Iban en camino a su rancho para limpiar las plantas de café.
Estos hombres caminan dos horas para llegar a su cafetal. La Unión queda a tres horas de la ciudad más cercana y las calles no son pavimentadas. La única manera de llegar al rancho es a pie, o en caballo. Muchos hombres caminan y se llevan un burro.
La cosecha comienza entre diciembre y enero. Durante este tiempo familias enteras salen de la Unión para ir a sus ranchos. El café se recoge y usan una máquina para despulpar el grano. Finalmente el café se seca al sol. Los mejores granos se seleccionan y se colocan en bolsas para venderlo en Chicomuselo. Las familias se quedan con parte del café para tostarlo a gusto.
El clima y la altitud en esta parte de México es ideal para el cultivo de café. El café de Chiapas es liviano y huele muy rico. Como regalo de despedida, los hermanos de la Unión nos dieron cinco bolsas de café, cada uno tostado por diferentes familias. Nuestros hermanos Chiapanecos son my hospitalarios y nunca los olvidaremos.